Posted by Lisbon is a somewhat underrated destination when compared to other European capitals, however delve into this enchanting and welcoming city and you’ll be awed by its history, architecture, wonderful food and wine and most of all by its easy-going and friendly Lisboetas (residents of Lisbon).
Trams and funiculars are certainly one fun way to get around, but pack your walking shoes to truly navigate this city of seven hills. Stroll along cobblestone lanes and mosaic-lined streets, be awed by grand buildings and imposing plazas, and don’t miss scenic riverside views with a long stroll along the Tagus River.
Visit the Principe Real district for a less touristy, upmarket local feel. Marvel at architecture with intricately tiled facades of buildings and enjoy views over colourful rooftops, valleys, and hills. Explore the Alfama District, the oldest part of the city, with an early morning stroll through alleyways and narrow staircases before Alfama wakes up, offering a lovely contrast to the lively atmosphere at night, when the local taverns are alive with music.
In Lisbon, eating is a leisurely affair; the locals love to sit down for hearty meals where bread is a constant, as is seafood, complemented by stunning Portuguese wines, which are sometimes cheaper than water. Taking a walking food tour is highly recommended, it’s the best way to explore and appreciate the intricacies of the local cuisine.
After enjoying sunny days and blue skies, embrace Lisbon’s vibrant nightlife, as this is a city that likes to stay up late. There’s much to keep you entertained into the wee hours, including haunting Fado music in the bars of Alfama, to the lively bars lining gay-friendly Pink Street, and the busy laneways of Bairro Alto, where local watering holes and tavernas abound.
Coffee & Brunch…
Fabrica Coffee Roasters | Rua do Comércio 111
This is the ultimate hipster coffee hangout with a lazy and relaxed vibe – the long narrow room comes with rough timber lined walls and concrete floors, exuding rustic charm. Their espresso and filter options are top-notch, complemented by delicious pastries and yoghurt. You can also buy beans and coffee equipment to take home, making it a perfect spot for coffee enthusiasts looking for quality and style. With two other outlets in Lisbon, Fabrica is a favourite among locals. Fabrica Coffee Roasters
Seagull Method | Rua da Palmeira 23
Seagull is a thoroughly modern cafe with a quirky vibe, comfortably rustic décor and a cosy atmosphere perfect for its neighbourhood locale. The modern breakfast menu includes a few twists and turns on usual café fare, ensuring each dish is unique. The food presents as good as it tastes, making every meal a delight. Whether for a casual breakfast or a relaxing coffee break, this is a standout choice. Seagull Method
Breakfast Lovers Misericordia | Calçada do Combro 45
Breakfast Lovers offers a vibrant start to the day with its colourful menu featuring contemporary cafe favourites. Choose from eight versions of eggs benedict or opt for one of their satisfying breakfast bowls. The ambiance exudes a 1970s vibe with lush greenery, rattan chairs and upbeat pop music, creating a lively atmosphere. Portions are generous, ensuring a hearty meal to kickstart your morning. It’s the perfect spot for brunch enthusiasts seeking a bright and flavourful experience. Breakfast Lovers Misericordia
Copenhagen Coffee Lab | Various Locations
Founded in Copenhagen and now beloved in Lisbon, Copenhagen Coffee Lab has outlets dotted around the city. Their top-quality home-baked breads and pastries are a highlight, attracting a clientele of young, well-presented professionals. With beans sourced from various countries, their coffee offers a delightful range of flavours. Whether you’re grabbing a quick coffee on the go or settling in for a leisurely brunch, this promises a delicious experience that combines Scandinavian charm with Lisbon’s vibrant energy. Copenhagen Coffee Lab
Pastel de Nata…
Traditional Portuguese custard tarts, Pastel de Nata are well known across the world, but there’s something special about trying one, or more, in country. These authentic local treats come with a creamy custard filling and flaky crust, offering an irresistible taste of the city’s rich culinary heritage – although they may all seem to look and taste the same, each bakery actually has their own secret recipe, so there are subtle and sometimes surprising differences in the texture and taste.
Pasteis de Belem | Rua Belém 84-92
This legendary patisserie has been delighting locals since 1837, though now there’s more tourists that locals lining up for the delicious Portuguese custard tarts that they seem to churn out by the tonne. There’s a series of sitting rooms if you’d prefer to linger longer here. Pasteis de Belem
Pastelaria Alcoa | Rua Garrett 37
The smart décor in this patisserie is matched by the very pretty pastries in the display cabinets – just looking at them feels indulgent! It’s not just about sweet treats though, the ‘sausage in pastry’ for breakfast is a winner, and their coffee is very good too. Pastelaria Alcoa
Pastelaria Santo Antonio | Rua do Milagre de Santo António 10
Located on the edge of the Alfama district, this fancy looking bakery offers very good Pastel de Nata, but also other tasty baked goods like fruity tarts, croissants and even ice cream.
Manteigaria | Rua do Loreto 2
Manteigaria is a small chain, boasting trendy, modern decor and a glass kitchen so you can watch the tarts being created with care. Their flaky pastry with just ‘burnt enough’ edges and gooey custard goodness will make you want more than one! Manteigaria
Aloma | Rua Francisco Metrass 67
Established in 1943, Aloma is situated on an unassuming corner in the Campo neighbourhood. For only 1.10euro, enjoy their delicious tarts served warm, straight from the oven. They’ve even been named the best Pastel de Nata in Lisbon numerous times. Aloma
Lunch & Dinner…
Tascardoso | Rua de O Século 242
This local tasca seems like it’s been here for a hundred years or more, and whilst you’ll likely have to wait on the street for your seat at a table in the tightly packed dining rooms, peering through the windows at the warm glow of happy diners within, you’ll be reassured it’s worth the wait. The fare is simple, rustic, perfectly prepared Portuguese favourites from around the country – olives, bread and divinely gooey cheese to start with, followed by beautifully grilled seafood and meats – look around the room and every table seems to have something special coming out of the kitchen. The menu is in Portuguese and not all the staff speak English, but they’ll take care of you just fine and prove that simply good food is more important than the bells & whistles that some establishments carry on with.
Rosamar | Rua da Rosa 317
This chic and fancy seafood place is set over two levels, the slick décor is quite contemporary and as glamourous as the crowd it attracts – with nautical curves and artworks, a marble bar top, shiny tiles, timber and brass elements. The modern approach to sustainable seafood starts with oysters four ways, followed by dishes including ceviche, tostadas, tacos and grilled catch of the day. Swish cocktails are served at pace, and the wine list has Portuguese drops well represented. If you’re in the mood for a snack and a drink, the downstairs bar is the place to be seated, whilst the mezzanine dining space is more elegant and refined. Rosamar
Magnolia | Praça das Flores 43
This bistro and wine bar opposite a charming leafy square feels young and fun, yet it’s quite the venue for grown-ups. The share menu offers a bit of this and a bit of that, featuring delightfully on trend wine bar fare, whilst the concise, distinctive, all-natural wine list is as impressive as the food. Though the tiny elegantly styled room can be cramped and loud, windows open in summer and sidewalk tables provide a pleasant alternative. Their soundtrack features boppy pop music that’s eclectic and lively. Magnolia
Pica Pau | Rua da Escola Politécnica 27
Pica Pau boasts a cute, cosy interior with tiled walls and an open galley kitchen, whilst the gorgeous rear terrace, adorned with greenery, offers a delightfully relaxed dining experience, with an ornate stucco floor and gentle fans adding to the charm. The mainly Portuguese wine selection pairs perfectly with the seafood-focused menu. Daily specials and indulgent snacks, like juicy garlic prawns with a warm roll to mop up the sauce, and salted cod cakes, are highlights. This is a must-visit for seafood lovers. Pica Pau
Pateo 13 | Calçadinha de Santo Estêvão 13
Offering alfresco dining in the heart of Alfama, this homely restaurant can be difficult to locate in the meandering alleyways of this charming historic part of Lisboa. The simplicity in concept and delivery works wonderfully, with a display case from which to choose your fresh seafood, whole fish, steak, and pork skewers, which are then cooked perfectly on open coals, accompanied by simple sides like salad and potato fries. The cash-only policy and cheap but ‘damn good’ wine only add to the rustic charm. Enjoy a languid lunch service, but expect it to be busier at night. A hidden gem worth finding.
Tasca da Esquina | Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C
A smart local tasca featuring an inviting leafy deck for alfresco dining and a welcoming inside dining room with green banquettes and timber tables. The experience starts with a fancy bread box, complete with cheese and olives in baby jars. The generous-sized tapas offer a wide selection of Portuguese and international flavours, complemented by colourful salads, and the fish and meat menus are diverse and flavourful. The wine selection is extensive, featuring both local and international options. Da Esquina combines local charm with true culinary excellence. Tasca da Esquina
Coyo Taco | Rua Dom Pedro V 65
Coyo Taco proves it doesn’t have to be all about Portuguese fare in Lisboa; sometimes you’ll naturally crave another cuisine. This spot serves simple but very good tacos; rich, overfilled, and sure to leave you with sticky fingers. They also offer burritos, salads, and fresh guacamole. Pair your meal with Mexican beer or choose from a long tequila and mezcal list, plus four local wines. With cool tunes, an open kitchen, and ample seating along a lengthy banquette, it’s the perfect spot for a quick feed. Coyo Taco
By the Wine | Rua das Flores 41 43
Featuring wines from the best of Portugal’s wine regions alongside ample international selections, this big venue boasts a striking curved ceiling lined with green wine bottles. At the long bar, indulge in hearty menu options including Portuguese fare and seafood delicacies, witness jamón hand-sliced with precision behind the bar, while cheese and charcuterie boards are a work of artisan wonder. By the Wine is a wine lover’s paradise with culinary delights to match, and informed staff who know and take their wine seriously. By the Wine
Tapisco | Rua Dom Pedro V 81
A vibrant eatery where Spanish tapas meet Portuguese petiscos, the stylish, retro-inspired décor adds to its lively atmosphere. The menu, crafted by renowned chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, features a delightful fusion of flavours, with highlights including fresh seafood, cured meats, and classic croquettes – the Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Prawns) are a standout. Sit at the bar if you can bag a seat and watch the talented chefs effortlessly working the pans. Tapisco
Drinking…
Black Sheep Lisboa | Praça das Flores 62
Black Sheep’s cosy ‘Next Door’ bar gives a new meaning to the term ’hole in the wall’; only seating six at the bar with tight standing space, it’s cozy yet very lively. There’s a different selection of bottles opened each day and they’ll let you try before you buy, pouring up to three wines to taste. The crowd often spills onto the street, creating a natural, mini street party on summer nights. With fair trade, low-intervention natural wine poured with abandon, new friends are guaranteed as strangers naturally chat to each other. They also serve as a takeaway bottle store, and their larger wine bar next door offers a more relaxed ambience. Black Sheep Lisboa
Palivhao Chimes | Rua Dom Pedro V 89,
Hidden in plain sight behind a historic façade of an old grocery store, Palivhao Chimes features a series of ornately decorated sitting rooms; every surface is covered with kitsch collectables, creating a museum-like, random, and somewhat dishevelled atmosphere. Staff in vests and bow ties maintain an old-world attitude, so don’t expect speedy or overly friendly service. The wine is basic, and the cocktail list is old school, but go for the décor — it’s fun and kooky as all hell. There’s even a billiard room at the back.
The Old Pharmacy | Rua do Diário de Notícias 83
A charming wine bar set in a historic pharmacy, retaining its vintage apothecary décor, it offers an extensive wine selection focused on Portuguese varieties – with helpful maps of Portuguese wine regions displayed on the walls. The cozy atmosphere, with old wooden shelves and antique bottles, invites you to unwind and savour local wines whilst snacking on perfect wine bar fare like meats, cheeses, mussels and sardines. The knowledgeable staff provide excellent recommendations and will arrange wine flights if you can’t choose just one vino. The Old Pharmacy
Janela de Atalaia | Rua da Atalaia 160
A convivial corner bar in the Bairro Alto’s cobblestone quarter, there’s a warm glow and a well lived in feel here, with the walls covered in old posters and collectibles. It’s more about good conversation than loud music, with happy tourists sipping on classic cocktails (for just 8euro each), though they also offer their own house cocktail concoctions too. The wine list is largely Portuguese, whilst food comes in the way of a selection of delectable tapas and small plates, the prices are affordable and the service warm and friendly.
Jobim | Rua da Imprensa Nacional 116f
A somewhat ‘divey’ bar with a cramped inside and some pavement seating, creating an uber chilled vibe. The all-Portuguese wine list by the bottle is just one page, and the limited by the glass menu makes choosing easy. Just a few snacky things are on the food menu, but they’re interesting and well prepared. This locals’ secret boasts super friendly staff with no airs and graces and a desire to over-deliver on a good time. Jobim
Nova Wine Bar | Rua Nova do Almada 20
Nova offers a low-key atmosphere with soft music, concrete walls, sandstone elements, and a striking mural on the wall. Focusing on Portuguese and international wines, including ports, madeira, and natural wines, the shelves groan with bottles to takeaway (or there’s a €15 surcharge to drink them there). The wine by the glass selection includes four or five varietals in each colour, featuring varied and interesting options like a Mariposa from Dão. The food menu has tasty bites and snacks and they also serve cerveza and aqua, but why would you need them when there’s so much good wine to taste? Nova Wine Bar
Bacchanal | Rua do Corpo Santo 28
A small yet charming venue featuring apothecary-style cabinets with bottles neatly lined up behind glass. Cocktails are the main event, offering both classic concoctions and unique Bacchanal creations, or choose your poison from a wide selection of liquors. The tight wine and cerveza menu complements the other offerings. Relaxed yet classy, it provides an inviting atmosphere for good cocktails. Bacchanal
Pensao Amor | Rua do Alecrim 19
Pensão Amor is a captivating establishment with a rich history located on Lisbon’s ‘Pink Street’. Once a brothel, it now exudes a bohemian charm with its eclectic décor and vibrant ambiance, which includes frescos on the ceiling. The venue features multiple floors, each with its own unique theme, from retro-chic to burlesque-inspired. The seven cocktails on offer are expertly crafted and served in an atmosphere that is both sultry and whimsical, the wine selection is quite tight though. Live music, provocative performances and quirky movies all add to the allure. Pensao Amor
Casa Da Praia | Rua Dom Pedro V 5
A cosy wine-cave style bar offering simple yet pleasing tapas and European fare. Inside, shelves are adorned with an abundance of wine bottles, creating a warm and convivial atmosphere. For those who enjoy people-watching, a few tables are available outside on the sidewalk. With its inviting ambiance and delicious offerings, Casa da Praia provides a charming and relaxed experience for wine and tapas enthusiasts alike. Casa Da Praia
Must Do…
Time Out Market | Avenue 24 de Julho 49
This vibrant culinary destination is housed in a vast historic market hall, offering a diverse range of gourmet stalls featuring excellent quality Portuguese and international cuisine. Highlights include fresh seafood, artisanal pastries, port, craft beers and creative cocktails. There are long communal tables to dine at, whilst some of the stalls offer counter seating too. It’s perfect for food lovers looking to sample multiple dishes in one spot and despite the crowds, the overall experience is worth it for the quality and variety on offer. Time Out Market
Where to Stay…
Navigating Lisbon’s winding streets and hills means you’ll want to stay somewhere rather central to all the sights and nightlife, so Travis recommends staying in the Barrio Alto or Principe Real districts, however we’ve also presented some interesting and comfortable options for staying in the heart of Baixa or in the historic Alfama district.
9 Hotel Mercy | Rua da Misericórdia 76
9 Hotel Mercy offers a stunning blend of old-world charm and modern comfort behind a beautiful heritage facade that conceals contemporary interiors. Situated in a fabulous central location in the Barrio Alto, it’s convenient for exploring the city at large. The guest rooms are dark, moody, and well-equipped, albeit compact, but you’ll appreciate the good-size bathrooms. A cute little rooftop bar provides picturesque views over rooftops to the castle and water. 9 Hotel Mercy
Memmo Principe Real | Rua Dom Pedro V 56 J
Nestled hillside in the trendy Príncipe Real neighbourhood, this intimate boutique hotel offers pleasant views of the surrounding districts from its terrace and pool. The décor is modern yet elegant, there’s often DJ’s spinning tunes in the bar and stylish, well-dressed clientele enjoying the upbeat ambience. Memmo Principe Real
Otilia Apartamentos | Rua Augusta 138
In the heart of the Baixa precinct with its fancy shops and touristy vibe, be prepared for a very steep set of stairs to reach your apartment, but the effort is well worth it. These absolutely lovely apartments come with high ceilings, beautiful décor and some have their own balconies. This is a great spot if you want to be eminently central, it’s less than a five-minute walk to a metro station and a short walk either way to Alfama or Barrio Alto. Otilia Apartamentos
Memmo Alfama | Travessa das Merceeiras 27
At the end of a quiet cobblestone lane, this boutique hotel is housed in a lovingly restored building, guest facilities include a communal living room and a smart terrace featuring a small pool. Overlooking Lisbon’s rooftops and waterways, the views are breathtaking. The attentive staff ensures a seamless stay, while the super cool modern interior adds to the sexy charm. Memmo Alfama
Featured Photo: ‘Rooftops of Lisboa’ – views from Alfama
Travis. 