Posted by Palermo is the largest barrio (neighbourhood) in Buenos Aires, and as many Portenos (the name for Buenos Aires locals) will attest to, also the most interesting. The barrio is made up of ten adjoining precincts – with Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho being the larger and more prominent ones; Hollywood is a little more languid and stylish, Soho is the slightly grittier and livelier precinct, with a vibrant late-night scene and more shops and boutiques. Wander the streets and you’ll find colourful street art and entire buildings adorned with murals, boutiques ranging from luxe labels to edgy up-and-coming designers, street markets, and lots of fun people watching.
When it comes to dining, Palermo is home to numerous outstanding parrillas, and if you’re in Argentina, there’s no better local culinary experience that a perfectly prepared piece of prime beef! You’ll also be happy to find a series of intimate wine bars which will allow you to taste your way through the Argentinian wine regions and varietals (import tariffs on wine are high in Argentina, so you won’t find a great deal of international wines in most bars and restaurants), and more than a few sexy speakeasys, some harder to find than others.
Like many Latin countries, dining and nightlife kicks off late here, so head out after 8pm for the best vibes – if bar hopping is your thing, the streets around Plaza Serrano are especially lively as the night gets later. If you’re a morning person though, you’ll be blessed by having the streets virtually to yourself if you head out for a morning stroll, even finding coffee before 9am can be a challenge.
This guide also strays into the adjoining district of Villa Crespo, which is more residential and a little more laidback than Palermo, and Chacarita which is fast emerging as the next cool barrio of BA. And whilst Palermo offers plenty to keep you busy, make sure you find time to explore other parts of this fascinating city, such as Recoleta and San Telmo.
Just Coffee..
Vive Cafe | Costa Rica 5722, Palermo Hollywood
A friendly neighbourhood café easily spotted by its bright yellow façade, Vive could easily become your drop in place if you lived in Palermo Hollywood. The cosy interior has a bohemian style with vintage furniture and a collection of couches and tables, there’s also seating on the sidewalk. The Columbian coffee is expertly made and there’s a selection of quick bites such as sweet and savoury scones to snack on. Vive Cafe
LAB Tostadores de Café | Humboldt 1542, Palermo Hollywood
This hip coffee joint was one of the earlier stalwarts in the new wave of BA coffee houses, it’s got the requisite warehouse look, lots of bright young things tapping away on their laptops, good caffeine and baked goods to snack on. Only open weekdays. LAB Tostadores de Café
Cuervo | Costa Rica 5801, Palermo Hollywood
This cool café serves very good coffee, plus pastries and croissants. Whilst not an expansive room, the high ceilings make it feel airy and comfortable, so you’ll be perfectly at home lingering over a coffee here. They also have a pleasant alfresco area on the pavement. There are a couple of other Cuervo outlets around BA. Cuervo
Al Diablo Coffee Roasters | Costa Rica 4752, Palermo Soho
In the heart of Palermo Soho, you’ll find this modest café with its own roastery on site. The sitting area is bright and white with both couches and tables, plus there’s a cute courtyard out the back. They also serve pastries and some tantalising looking slices if you are after more than just caffeine. Al Diablo Coffee Roasters
Cobre | Gorriti 5070, Palermo Soho
A young hip crowd frequents this fashion store and café combo, the all-concrete interior is softened by the racks of clothing and there’s a cute little courtyard at the rear to get some sun in. The super chill vibe and background tunes are as smooth as the coffee here. They also have an outlet in Villa Crespo. Cobre
Ispica | Gorriti 5295, Palermo Soho
A very contemporary café and patisserie that serves a good coffee and dainty little croissants that are quite morish. There’s a take-way window to grab a coffee on the go, or a pleasant seating area on the sidewalk. Ispica
Brunch…
Oli | Costa Rica 6020, Palermo Hollywood
A charismatic café that’s constantly busy from opening time, the offering includes handsome pastries, simple but delightful breakfast hits, plus tasty sandwiches – with the menu moving intro broader European dishes at lunchtime. The modish looking dining room features white brick walls, blonde timber tables and a concrete counter, there’s also a spacious outdoor streetside dining area. Oli
Artemesia | Costa Rica 5893, Palermo Hollywood
Artemisa doesn’t open till midday, though many Portenos consider this the ideal breakfast time, and it’s natural and organic ‘healthy’ fare might be the perfect recovery fuel after a night of clubbing. The menu is all vegetarian and vegan, and proves that healthy food can be very tasty, not to mention very pretty, with most dishes coming with oodles of colour and texture. The bread is a highlight, multiple varieties of fresh bread sit prominently on the counter and two varieties are automatically served when you are seated. The long menu offers salads, burgers and even vegetarian takes on lasagne and meatballs to delight, plus refreshing cold pressed juices. The dining space feels like it’s an old workshop, with metal windows and high ceilings, there’s a country-chic look to the interiors and they also offer retail goods for sale, including the premium olive oil and vinegar which they use. Artemesia
Surry Hills | Jorge Luis Borges 1842, Palermo Soho
An ode to Australian café culture, Surry Hills is your go-to for simple, fresh Aussie brunch fare, like pressed juices, toasties and avocado on toast (though their version does come with hummus added). The menu is short but very sufficient and the vibe is suitably relaxed, with the big front window letting sunlight stream in and the high ceiling providing an airy feel to the simply decorated room. Surry Hills
Walden | Gurruchaga 1195, Villa Crespo
Low-key but confident in what it offers, Walden has a short and ‘simple to deliver’ menu of sweet and savoury brunch items, with toasts featuring avocado or brie popular options, plus good coffee of course. It’s a small but functional space, contemporary and styled reminiscent of a living room, with large windows bringing in ample morning sunshine. Walden
Lunch & Dinner…
Parrilla Don Julio | Guatemala 4699, Palermo Soho
Certainly living up to its reputation, BA’s most iconic parrilla serves simply amazing steaks. If you can grab one of the few seats at the bar looking over the parrilla, do it so you can enjoy watching the masterful chefs gently prepare possibly the best steak you’ve ever likely had. The restaurant is over two levels (upstairs looks down into the main room), with a perfectly lived-in and rustic, but also nicely polished, feel. A solid wine list and elegant service round out an exceptional dining experience at this always busy parrilla. Parrilla Don Julio
El Preferido de Palermo | Jorge Luis Borges 2108, Palermo Soho
A sister venue to Don Julio, El Preferido brings a more contemporary parrilla experience to the neighbourhood, and it’s clearly resonated with the locals as get here more than half an hour after opening time and the wait for a table is likely to be an hour or more. The pink hued exterior sets the scene for the smart ‘low-key-luxe’ interiors in a u-shaped dining room that offers a calm respite to the crowds forming outside waiting for their turn to get in. Starting with warm bread and olive oil, it’s immediately evident that great produce and attention to detail is important here. The culinary offering is relatively simple, and you can choose to be as adventurous or not as you like, with many diners happy to start with some homemade charcuterie before enjoying a classic Milanesa or Sirloin Steak, accompanied by some scrumptious side dishes. The service is both warm yet efficient, the team manages to bring calm to what could become chaos in a restaurant so busy and in demand. El Preferido de Palermo
La Carniceria | Thames 2317, Palermo Soho
The name means ‘butcher’s shop’ in Spanish and it’s an apt description of the focus at this modern take on a classic parrilla, where less popular cuts of meat are the stars – many diners are wowed by their version of sweetbreads. The appetisers are interesting and delicious, but the main game is the parrilla selection – the parrilla cut is a huge slab of T-bone steak that will certainly not leave you hungry, and there’s a range of suitably tasty sides to order with it or any of the other cuts of meat on offer. Be patient here as the size of the cuts mean they take time to cook, and if you are on a low salt diet be warned they throw liberal amounts of it onto everything that goes onto the parrilla. There are only two wines by the glass available, but the wines by the bottle start at reasonable prices, before escalating for more premium varietals. It’s a compact dining room, so arrive early to avoid waiting (there are three sittings per night, with the last at 10.30pm), or squeeze into a stool at the small bar and watch the chefs in action as your entertainment. La Carniceria
La Cabrera Parrilla Palermo | José A. Cabrera 5127, Palermo Soho
The labyrinth of small and cosy rustic rooms sets the perfect scene at this traditional Argentinian steakhouse that is a meat lovers haven – the meat is simply prepared, ‘melt in your mouth’ sensational. The servings, from both the parrilla and the beautifully presented side dishes, are quite huge, whilst the service is refined and absolutely first class. The popularity of La Cabrera and its chef & founder Gaston Riveira has resulted in another La Cabrera venue just up the street, plus sister venues opening up across other South American countries. La Cabrera Parrilla Palermo
La Mar | Arévalo 2024, Palermo Hollywood
This Peruvian cerbicheria is one of the more popular dining spots in Palermo (it also has outlets across other South & North American cities), and rightly so. Housed in a grand building, the stylish courtyard and bar are the choice spots to dine, as the interior dining room is pleasant but lacks atmosphere. Ceviche is the house speciality and there’s multiple variations to try, there’s also plenty of other good things on the long and varied menu to please all tastes, such as spicy seafood empanadas. The flavours are fresh, intense, with plenty of chilli, and the super decadent desserts and Peruvian themed cocktails are winners too. It’s a suitably happening scene, with attractive and attentive young waitstaff. La Mar
Tigre Morado | Honduras 5900, Palermo Hollywood
Continuing with the Peruvian theme, Tigre Morado offers an equally diverse but more tightly curated menu than La Mar, with their own spins added to traditional Peruvian recipes. The long narrow dining room is sparsely decorated with intricate light fittings providing points of interest, and there’s ample alfresco seating in their streetside pergola. The kitchen is open till 12.30am, so it’s a good spot for a late-night meal, and the atmosphere stays lively until well past midnight. Tigre Morado
Tomate Estacion | El Salvador 4676, Palermo Soho
There’s a varied menu of hearty and comforting fare on offer here, with salads, sandwiches, small raciones and larger main dishes to sate every appetite – though whatever you order make sure you get the thrice cooked chips as a side! There’s a botanical theme to the décor, despite the narrow dining room being an all-concrete affair, with flora wallpaper behind the bar, a canopy of dried plants hanging from the ceiling and a large garden courtyard dining area at the rear. They also offer an impressive collection of liquor for a restaurant, and the lunch menu comes with a choice of three Bloody Mary options. Tomate Estacion
Las Petunias | Costa Rica 4600, Palermo Soho
This casual and bustling eatery offers a broad menu that will please all tastes, with meats from the parrilla plus pizza, salads and other easy dining fare – not every dish might hit the mark, but there’s enough here to find what you might be craving. Situated on a corner, when the doors are flung open it’s a bright and breezy space with a chic ‘beach-house’ feel and the chef’s busily doing their thing in an elevated open kitchen that overlooks the dining room. Las Petunias
Drinks…
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi (JA!) | Jorge Luis Borges 1772, Palermo Soho
A rustic wine shop that sprawls across a series of rooms that are packed tightly with shelves of wine and cases stacked to the ceiling. Offering only Argentinian wines, it’s the perfect place to get an introduction to the country’s various wine regions and varietals produced, and the ideal way to browse is with a glass in hand to sip whilst you shop. They also offer structured wine tastings where you’ll learn more about the provenance of local wines (such as the fact that the lack of regulation means local wine makers are more likely to be experimental, or that the Torrontes varietal is the only one unique to Argentina) whilst tasting six or more wines, accompanied by a cheese selection. The staff are well informed and passionate, and clearly enjoy their jobs – as my tasting sommelier said; “we like to drink a lot”! Lo de Joaquin Alberdi (JA!)
Pain et Vin | Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho
Bread and wine is all you need to enjoy life in Travis’ opinion, so Pain et Vin is a wonderful place to park yourself for a leisurely afternoon of wine tasting. It’s a very welcoming space, with large arched windows letting natural light in to warm the concrete floors, with rustic timber tables and a long high communal table which is comfortably sufficient for a vino tasting. They range virtually only Argentinian wines (with the odd French one thrown into the mix), wines by the glass are ever changing and displayed on a central table for you to choose from. Bottle wines can be chosen directly from the shelves, with both drink-in and takeaway prices displayed – there’s enough choice but not so much that it’s overwhelming. Wine flights and degustation’s are also available if you want to dive deeper, and there’s bread (of course), cheese and a tasty array of share plates (plus some larger heartier meals) to sate your appetite. Lovely warm service from informative sommeliers is an added bonus. Pain et Vin
Vini | Jorge Luis Borges 1965, Palermo Soho
Low-key and understated, this wine bar has a snug interior (including a small loft) and an outdoor terrace area on the street. The wines on offer are mostly low-intervention Argentinian varietals, with the wine list running across three pages (though in very small print, so there’s a lot to choose from). There are only six or so wines by the glass, but it’s quality over quantity here, and if you are feeling peckish there’s an attractive selection of wine-friendly snacks to enjoy. Vini
Vico Wine Bar | Gurruchaga 1149, Villa Crespo
A stunning venue, with polished ‘warehouse’-chic décor that includes concrete floors, exposed brick work, lush seats and low-lighting. The wine choices are a highlight, with 140 Argentinian wines, and another 40 or so international wines, all available by the glass – self serve from Coravin dispensers. There is also a very tasty small plates menu for sustenance and a soundtrack of up-tempo tunes. Reservations are recommended. Vico Wine Bar
La Fuerza | Av. Dorrego 1409, Chacarita
In the emerging cool district of Chacarita, this welcoming vermouth bar feels like it’s been around for much longer than it has, the corner location affording it large windows, with the interior featuring a checkered tile floor and curved bar. Vermouth is of course the drawcard here, they even make their own, and it’s included in a some of their spritz and cocktail offerings. There’s also vino and other drinks on the menu to please everyone, plus snack food such as croquetas and tortilla. Groovy 90’s pop tunes play along in the background. La Fuerza
Vecinda | Castillo 1502, Chacarita
This warming low-key neighbourhood bar is a handy stop on your way to La Fuerza – it’s a little boho with candlelight, raw timber walls, a mish-mash of rustic furniture, plus a pinball machine and shelves amply stacked with wine. There’s nothing contrived about Vecinda, it’s just a good local place to drop in and feel instantly welcomed. The serve pleasant snacks, including tasty empanadas, with a range of interesting vegetarian (and just one meat) varieties. Vecinda
Boticario | Honduras 5207, Palermo Soho
This fancy but friendly cocktail bar is styled like an apothecary, the moodily lit room has an elegant bar, luxe leather booths, an ornate ceiling and shelves of antique drinking curio. The menu changes every second month and is created by the bartending team, so there’s seven cocktails on the menu, one designed by each current team member – though they also serve classics with a twist if that’s your desire. The team are outfitted in smart green lab-style coats and will proudly describe your drink for you in detail as they are pouring it in front of you (or delivering it, if you’re not sitting at the bar). Boticario
Victoria Brown | Costa Rica 4827, Palermo Soho
One of Buenos Aires well-known and much-loved speakeasy bars, behind the large doors that are camouflaged with street-art, you’ll be welcomed into an expansive room with a long grand bar, big semi-circular booths, vintage chairs and tables, copper light fittings and a general ‘shabby-chic’ opulence. The extensive cocktail list is divided into categories such as suave or classico, hand cut ice blocks are considered one of their key ingredients and the drinks are made with precision by an engaging bar team. Victoria Brown
Rey de Copas | Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho
Set in a charming colonial building, the series of rooms that make up Rey de Copas are more like an art-gallery than a bar, with displays of art works from the founder’s artist father, and collectibles that both father and son have both brought back from their avid travels around the world. The eclectic décor and low lighting make for a romantic atmosphere, though there are also seating spaces for larger groups of friends, so it’s a mixed bunch of clientele happily drinking along here. There’s intricate cocktails and basic wines by the glass on offer, with a solid spirits list too, though the drinks are just a small part of the overall attraction at RDC. Rey de Copas
Bar 878 | Thames 878, Villa Crespo
The dimly lit main bar is usually quite busy, but if you push through a door in the far wall, you’ll find another, somewhat quieter bar. Set in an old sub-station building, there’s no sign, just a pair of large timber doors (though the presence of security out front might give away its location). It’s a surprisingly relaxed and unpretentious place, candle-lit, with low slung chairs or a long bar that invites you to sit at and take it all in. They offer a large beverage range, including a solid selection of Argentinian wines and vermouth. Bar 878
Where to Stay…
There’s an abundance of boutique hotels around Palermo, many of them quite intimate and oozing local style. Standouts in Palermo Hollywood include Home Hotel, CasaSur and Fierro Hotel. In Palermo Soho, consider Legado Mitico or Miravida Soho Hotel.
For less style but more convenience (as it’s located right at the juncture of Hollywood and Soho), the Dazzler by Wyndham Palermo is a reasonable option.
Travis’ Wish List…
Because there’s always more eating, dining and exploring than can be done in just one visit, Travis likes to keep a wish list so there’s an incentive to visit again!
Next time we’re in Palermo we’ll be starting with breakfast at Salvaje Bakery, and for an easy lunch, we’d stop in at La Hormiga or perhaps indulge in some fabulous parrilla fare at Lo De Jesus.
When dinner beckons, Italian diner Carmen would be ideal for a relaxed meal, or for something more serious we’d reserve a table ahead of time at ‘indie’ restaurant Julia or fine diner Crizia.
After dinner, we’d drop by Backroom for some live music, then finish the evening on a high with cocktails at Isabel or Frank’s (or both!).
Featured Photo: ‘Winner Winner’ – Lionel Messi mural by Maxi Bagnasco, Palermo
Travis. 