Posted by There are far too many cliches that can be used to describe Rome but all of them make absolute sense; it’s magnificent, intoxicating, cultured, chaotic, exquisite and utterly seducing – be warned, one visit will never be enough once you have fallen for the charms of this intriguing city.
Rome is a city made for walking, so limber up and hit the cobblestone streets, where at just about every turn there is likely to be a pinch yourself moment as you come across monuments which are in one sense familiar, but up close and in real life, so surprising and fascinating.
A city with so much to offer of course comes with the pitfalls of popularity and congestion, so if you can plan your visits to Rome’s landmarks ahead of time and make a beeline to them as early in the day as possible, you’ll be best placed to avoid the crowds and long lines. Interspersed with the sightseeing and cultural discoveries, food and wine is a crucial part of Roman life, so hop freely and frequently between its many delectable restaurants, caffes, pasticcerias and wine bars – lots of smaller snack stops throughout the day are highly recommended.
If you have limited time here, the charming neighbourhood around Campo de’ Fiori is the perfect place to start your explorations, the tiny streets and laneways are packed with gems and a taste of Roman life. With more time on your hands, get to know the increasingly fashionable Monti district, spend a night in the lively Trastevere neighbourhood, or venture a little out of the city to Pigneto, a neighbourhood that has regentrified in recent years and is now home to an eclectic and arty collection of bars and trattorias.
Wherever your Roman journey takes you, one thing is certain, you’ll certainly find your own version of La Dolce Vita (the sweet life)!
Just Coffee..
Er Baretto | Via del Boschetto, 132, Monti
In the heart of the increasingly trendy Monti district, an understated caffe and wine bar that offers both indoor and outdoor seating areas, allowing the option to linger a little longer than you would in most espresso bars. Morning snacks include fresh panino and rolls, whilst their coffee menu even features a very good flat white. Er Baretto
Bar La Licata | Via dei Serpenti, 165, Monti
This Monti treasure has been operating since 1982, it’s rather big and busy, always a hive of activity, with cheery staff, good coffee and an extensive selection of tempting pastries. They open early too, so make a beeline here if jetlag has got you up early. Bar La Licata
Bar Farnese | Via Dei Baullari, 20, Campo de’ Fiori
This classic Italian espresso bar looks and feels like it hasn’t changed in a hundred or more years. The efficient and well-groomed elderly owner is still proudly in command of daily operations, it’s a wonderfully chaotic place to stop by for a good cappuccino. It’s mostly standing room only, though there are a couple of petite tables to sit at.
Ciampini Roma | Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, Pantheon
This popular caffe is set on a small attractive piazza, with alfresco seating and two standup coffee bars inside. The coffee is strong and bitter, perfect for a morning starter, and there’s pastries piled high on the counters for a sugar hit. There’s also pizza on the menu if you’re here for something more substantial. Ciampini Roma
Sant’Eustachio il Caffe | Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82, Pantheon
You’ll find one of Rome’s most iconic coffee houses located just near the Pantheon. Whilst on the touristy side, it’s worth a visit for a touch of old-world style and a pretty decent coffee – they roast their own beans and use water from an ancient aqua-duct. There’s two massive coffee machines in constant use and they proudly proclaim that “Since 1938 our coffee is served with sugar”. Sant’Eustachio il Caffe
Faro | Via Piave, 55, Salario
A thoroughly modern espresso bar with bright, whitewashed walls, a shiny red coffee machine and young, edgy but amenable staff – it’s worth the walk to this slightly out-of-the-way spot. The coffee is excellent, there’s a tempting array of pastries including Maricordo (traditional Roman breakfast pastries), with ample seating both inside and out. Despite the contemporary vibe, laptops are not welcome, as good conversation over an espresso is still the most important thing here. Faro
Snacks…
Antico Forno Roscioli | Via dei Chiavari, 34, Campo de’ Fiori
The perfect spot for a quick snack stop in the Campo de Fiori neighbourhood – options include sweet pastries, pizza slices, freshly baked pane and a more substantial selection of meats, vegetables and pastas from the lunch counter. The porchetta pane are simple but so very good! Antico Forno Roscioli
Forno Campo de’ Fiori | Campo de’ Fiori, 22, Campo de’ Fiori
This fabulous bakery serves pizza by the slice (cut to order) and other morish snacks like suppli ragu; it’s a perfect pit-stop for a little snack on-the-go in between meals. Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Norcineria Viola | Campo de’ Fiori, 43, Campo de’ Fiori
Founded in Campo de’ Fiori in 1890, this cave like store is packed with over 100 cured meat products, with curing pork cheeks hanging from the ceiling and cabinets stocked to the brim with every sort of delicacy. Cheese is also on offer and for a simple but fulfilling snack, grab one of their porchetta rolls. Norcineria Viola
Er Buchetto | Via del Viminale, 2F, Termini
You’ll find this tiny, rustic and ramshackle bar not far from Termini Station. It’s all about the fabulous roast porchetta here – order it sliced on its own or on a pane. To accompany your porchetta, opt for a drink from the small beer selection or the vino straight from the tap. This is what Roman life is all about!
Lunch & Dinner…
Hosteria Grappolo D’oro | Piazza della Cancelleria, 80, Campo de’ Fiori
Just off the Campo de’ Fiori you’ll find this rustic gem of two tightly packed character-filled dining rooms. Roman classics are on the menu, including antipasti, hearty bowls of pasta and grilled meats with vegetables. This is good honest food, prepared with attention and care, with genuine service and the only backing soundtrack being the delighted chatter of other diners. Hosteria Grappolo D’oro
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina | Via dei Giubbonari, 21, Campo de’ Fiori
Everyone in-the-know has Roscioli at the top of their Roma list, it’s a wonderful mish-mash of deli, wine bar and restaurant all in one, serving outstanding food with authentically Italian service. The menu is quite extensive and you may find lots of generous little surprises delivered to the table. Book well ahead, as its popularity is well known. Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
Pierluigi | Piazza de’ Ricci, 144, Campo de’ Fiori
An extensive seafood menu takes centre stage at this renowned restaurant that has been in operation since 1938, with oysters, fresh fish, caviar and truffle being some of the highlights, though there are a handful of meat dishes including suckling pig for non seafood eaters. The long international wine list reads like a book, the service is refined and on-point, the series of dining rooms are simply yet elegantly decorated. Pierluigi is relatively expensive, so treat this as a treat meal if you really love your seafood. Pierluigi
Tram Tram | Via dei Reti, 44, Termini
Cosy, rustic and a little off the well-worn tourist track, immerse yourself in this intimate dining room dating from the 1940’s with walls covered with memorabilia, and dive into home style Roman and Puglian fare (the seafood is a highlight) which has clearly been made with plenty of love and attention. The ‘sometimes’ page of the menu is a wonderful touch – it features dishes that they ‘sometimes’ offer. Tram Tram
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 | Via dei Vascellari, 29, Trastevere
A modest and homely family run trattoria on a quiet Trastevere back street, serving authentic Roman fare such as fried artichoke, beef oxtail and of course pasta. No bookings are taken, so eager diners will often be lined up waiting for them to open up for lunch or dinner service. Trattoria Da Enzo al 29
Biosteria Dar Parucca | Via Macerata, 89, Pigneto
Almost hidden in plain sight in the vibrant neighbourhood of Pigneto, you’ll need to book ahead to get a seat in Parucca’s cramped dining room or basement, as the locals flock here for simply great Roman fare with a little twist or two. The menu is short but very sufficient, with a selection of six of each antipasti, pasta and secondi. The dishes are flavour-some and hearty, and very good value with nothing priced at more than twenty euro. It may be small, but there’s a delightfully boisterous atmosphere here.
PIZZA…
Pizzeria alle Carette | Via della Madonna dei Monti, 95, Monti
Behind an unassuming entryway is this deceptively large old-school pizzeria that churns out simply fabulous thin and crispy pizza that feels like it’s just been licked by the flames of the oven. The substantial menu offers up varieties with or without sauce, most options are under ten euro. There’s also antipasti and a long dessert menu, so be warned you’re likely to eat more than you intended to. This is a wonderfully down to earth slice of Rome where you’re going to make a mess as you dig in to your pizza.
La Montecarlo | Vicolo Savelli, 13, Piazza Navona
An unassuming pizzeria that turns out close to the perfect pizza; thin and crispy with slightly charred edges, a choice of red or white sauce, and all the traditional toppings you could want (there’s more than just pizza on the menu, but honestly the pizza is so good it’s all you need). There’s an outdoor area plus a large dining room, during peak times it fills up fast but they move at pace here so hopefully a wait for a table won’t take too long, and you can always sip on a longneck of Peroni to while away the time. La Montecarlo
Emma | Via del Monte della Farina, 28, Campo de’ Fiori
A multi-faceted emporium, Emma is a pizzeria, deli and wine store all in the same premises. Using mainly organic produce, the menu runs to many pages, with a large cheese and salumeria offering, as well as pasta to tempt you, but try not to be distracted by these delicacies as the magnificent pizza is what you are here for. The pizza menu itself is also quite broad, with traditional and Emma’s special toppings available. It’s a pleasant space to while away some time, there’s a large courtyard out back, a comfortable inside dining room and a smaller terrace at the front. Emma
Drinks…
WINE BARS…
L’Angolo Divino | Via dei Balestrari, 12-14, Campo de’ Fiori
An authentic wine shop and bar, with wall-to-wall shelves well stocked with vino from around the world. The staff are wine aficionado’s and will take their time and care with offering recommendations, there’s only five red and five white available by the glass, but endless bottles to choose from. There’s nothing ostentatious about this place, just a cosy vibe, good service and great wine – when asked how many wines he stocked, the owner’s reply was “I don’t know – too much!”. Being a few streets from the Campo de Fiori, it’s a nice haven away from the hustle and bustle of the Campo. L’Angolo Divino
Il Gocetto | Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14, Campo de’ Fiori
This consummate wine bar can appear deceptive, if you arrive early enough you’ll likely find quite a serene space with wine connoisseurs sipping on nice vino, but it can quickly get busy and a little chaotic, though in a very good way, as the evening wears on. You’ll feel the warm embrace of the wonderful wine selection; with around ten options by the glass and many more by the bottle, which line the shelves around the room, there’s something enjoyable for everyone here. For sustenance, they offer a selection of both simple and interesting snacks that are surprisingly delicious, like a plain boiled egg with salt, pepper and oil, or a little mound of ricotta with honey and pine nuts. There’s no background music, just the animated chatter of happy drinkers, and as it gets busier, the party often spills into the street.
Enoteca Cul de Sac | Piazza di Pasquino, 73, Piazza Navona
Established in 1977, the walls of this long and narrow bar are lined with bottles and bottles, with the wine list divided into the different wine regions of Italy, though there’s only limited options to choose from by the glass. The food is perfect for sharing with wine, from pate to cured meats and cheese, plus a hearty pasta selection. This convivial bar proves that simplicity can be so good. Enoteca Cul de Sac
Ai Tre Scalini | Via Panisperna, 251, Monti
The type of wine bar everyone wishes they had in their neighbourhood, this Monti treasure is supremely comfortable, with old time décor but a touch of hipster attitude. It’s warm and welcoming inside at the bar or in the sitting room, there’s also alfresco seating on the cobblestone street. The wines are from around Europe and include biodynamic and vegan varieties, there’s also a substantial range of beers on tap. The food menu is straightforward yet fulfilling, think lasagna, polpette and other hearty drinking fare, and the soundtrack of groovy retro tunes completes the package. Ai Tre Scalini
Enoteca Il Tiaso | Via Ascoli Piceno, 25, Pigneto
Tucked down a side street off Via del Pigneto, this somewhat ‘boho’ wine bar has a cosy interior with lived-in, vintage furniture, intriguing local artworks and jazz music playing in the background. The shelves are well stocked with lovely wines, there are two beers on tap and snack fare like olives and charcuterie are proffered. It’s a friendly place to stop by for a drink, the type of bar where the staff know the patrons well enough that there are hugs all round on arrival and departure. Enoteca Il Tiaso
COCKTAIL BARS…
Sacripante Art Gallery | Via Panisperna, 59, Monti
In the popular Monti neighbourhood this hybrid retail shop, art gallery and cocktail bar is an adorable surprise. The bar is in a little nook at the back of the shop, it offers just five stools and four chairs (plus some seating in the shop itself) and has an eclectic rustic meets boho vibe. The drinks are not too tricky, just a mix of classic and signature cocktails and basic vino. Oh, and dogs are very welcome here.
The Jerry Thomas Project | Vicolo Cellini, 30, Campo de’ Fiori
Created in 2010, this was one of Rome’s first upscale cocktail bars and it continues to set the benchmark to this day. Firstly, make a reservation ahead of time, or otherwise in true speakeasy fashion, entry may or may not be granted – and if you are granted entry it will likely involve doing a quiz on their website to gain the secret access word. The modest size sitting room and bar takes you back to the roaring 20’s, with chesterfield couches, soft lighting, backlist bottle displays and jazzy tunes playing. Cocktails are clearly their passion, there’s the pure classics and their versions of the classics, plus champagne and one beer, but no wine on offer. You’ll enjoy the theatrics of the cocktail making and the unparalleled attention to detail – the coasters with the recipe for the cocktail you are drinking are one of the impressive touches. The Jerry Thomas Project
Wisdomless Club | Via Sora, 33, Piazza Navona
There’s a young and edgy side to this elegant old-fashioned style cocktail bar, in some part thanks to the fact it’s also got a side hustle as a tattoo parlour. The bar features timber panelled walls adorned with taxidermy and deep leather sofas to sink into, though sitting at the bar and watching the smartly dressed staff whip up their creations is also a good place to be. Like many cocktail bars, they offer up classics and their own versions with a special twist, such as a Negroni with Coconut Oil (it tastes a lot better than it sounds!). There’s also a cute courtyard seating area for when the weather is playing nice. Wisdomless Club
The Court | Via Labicana, 125, Colosseum
Part of the Palazzo Manfredi hotel, this swish terrace bar has an enviable position overlooking the Ludus Magnus ruins and the imposing Colosseum beyond that. They make a big deal of the fact that they’ve been named in the Worlds 50 Best Bars two years running and they certainly treat cocktail making as a serious business. There’s seven cocktails in each category on the menu (a lucky Roman number), and even seven mocktails. A welcome Prosecco and generous array of tasty aperitivo are proffered on arrival, though the cocktails aren’t cheap so these touches and the effervescent service make the ‘Il Conto’ (the check) a little more palatable. The Court
Where to Stay…
Where to stay in Rome can be a difficult decision, the city centre is quite broad and there’s likely to be something you want to see in just about every part of it, so there’s no right or wrong area to base yourself. Below are some suggested bolt-holes that are varied, interesting and provide an option for most key areas you may wish to stay in.
Hotel Paba | Via Cavour, 266, Monti
A well priced, ‘cute as a button’ seven room hotel that feels more like staying in a private apartment, well located in the heart of Monti and only a few blocks from the Colosseum. Hotel Paba
The Fifteen Keys Hotel | Via Urbana, 6, Monti
Also in Monti, this swish boutique property offers a stylish retreat in its fifteen deluxe rooms. The Fifteen Keys Hotel
Mercure Rome Colosseum Centre | Via Labicana, 144, Colosseum
The rooms are compact, though comfortable enough, but its the location and the rooftop pool with stunning views of the Colosseum that will draw you to this above average Mercure – especially in summer when a hotel with a pool is a true luxury in Rome. Mercure Rome Colosseum Centre
Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese | Via Lombardia, 47, Villa Borghese
In a quieter elevated neighbourhood bordering the Villa Borghese Gardens, but still within easy reach of all Rome’s key attractions, this elegant hotel offers a plush stay and a lovely rooftop bar and restaurant with views over the city. Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese
Hotel Chapter Roma | Via di S. Maria de’ Calderari, 47, Campo de’ Fiori
Perfectly located for food and wine hopping around the Campo de’ Fiori district, this is one of Rome’s most sought after boutique hotel digs, with sexy rooms and a rooftop terrace. Hotel Chapter Roma
Must Do…
Eating Europe Food Tours
You don’t need to be a complete foodie to be wowed by one of these walking food tours, as there’s history and insights into Italian life woven into the gourmet tastings and food education. A rambling 4-hour tour will take you through the neighbourhoods of either Trastevere or Testaccio, or opt for a combined Campo de’ Fiori, Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere tour. With ample stops for sampling and meeting the local shop keepers and restauranteurs, all of whom are wonderfully welcoming and engaging, the commentary is informative and fascinating, the samples delicious and very generous. The daytime tour includes a proper sit-down lunch stop with pasta and wine included, whilst the evening tours include plenty of wine tasting. The well-informed guides, who are friendly and generous with their stories and recommendations, take the experience to another level. Eating Europe
Travis’ Wish List…
Because there’s always more eating, dining and exploring than can be done in just one visit, Travis likes to keep a wish list so there’s an incentive to visit again! In Rome, this list can be long, as it’s a city that is all about eating and drinking, so multiple visits are definitely required if you are to have the time to dine at every restaurant or drink in every bar that takes your fancy. Next visit we’re coveting the wonderful traditional Roman dishes at Armando Al Pantheon and the hearty homestyle fare at Enoteca Corsi, and for a more modern take on the traditional trattoria, we’ll be dropping into Urbana 47 in Monti. A little further from the centre of town, we’d head to Angelina in Testaccio for a relaxed informal meal, and hotspot pizzeria Seu Pizza Illuminati in trendy Trastevere for their very contemporary pizza.
Featured Photo: ‘The Colosseum’
Travis. 