Posted by Venice has to be seen to be believed, whilst images and stories can prepare you for what you might expect to find here, nothing is better than losing yourself in this wonderland of small laneways, endless canals, charming historical buildings, museums and galleries, and of course fabulous food and wine. Whilst its many tourist landmarks will draw you here, it’s the unexpected discoveries that happen when you purposely ‘get lost’ that will truly make you fall in love with Venice – it’s a place made for walking and walking aimlessly at that – so throw the map out and just take each turn as it comes.
Being impossibly picturesque, you’ll be stopping often for more photos than you can imagine, and just as regularly to snack and hydrate. Venice has a huge array of remarkable restaurants (and some not so great), but the best way to immerse yourself in the foodie culture here is to do a vino and cicchetti crawl from bar to bar. Many of Venice’s Bacaro’s (bars) offer an enticing selection of cicchetti, these are usually morish fried bites or small pieces of bread topped with all varieties of tasty morsels – think of them as Venice’s version of the aperitivo or tapas.
The Bacaro’s are usually just pocket sized, with standing room only and often you’ll need to hustle to find some space and place your order. Whilst they are spread far and wide across the island, if you are short on time or not in the mood to walk longer distances, there’s a magnificent collection of Bacaro’s alongside the rio della Misericordia canal in the Cannaregio neighbourhood. And in Venice, it seems like any hour is a good time for a spritz or a glass of prosecco, so don’t be alarmed to start whenever you feel like it.
This is not your usual Travis Guide, it’s very much about the marvellous Bacaro’s of Venice, so go on, explore, indulge and enjoy!
Bacaro’s of Venice…
Cantine del Vino Schiavi | Fondamenta Nani, 992, Dorsodouro
A historic tavern with floor-to-ceiling bottles lining the walls, although it’s a relatively spacious room, it’s popularity means it fills up quickly and becomes shoulder-to-shoulder standing room only. There’s a large and enticing range of cicchetti available, with fresh trays appearing from the kitchen at a quick pace, plus straightforward paninis made to order filled with porchetta, prosciutto or mortadella. A wonderful slice of old time Venice that’s still very relevant. Cantine del Vino Schiavi
Cantina Do Mori | Calle Do Mori, 429, San Polo
This legendary establishment has been around since 1462 and you can tell there’s history seeped into every part of it. The room is dark and moody, with old water well buckets hanging from the ceiling and a long imposing bar. The vino choice is rather basic, as are the cicchetti, and the service is quite old-school (and perhaps a touch grumpy), but it’s the history you are here to drink in. Do Mori attracts an odd mix of tourists and old timer locals, it closes promptly at 7.30pm.
Alla Fonda | Calle Galiazza, San Polo
A more modern take on the traditional Venetian Bacaro, this compact bar offers just eight stools or standing room, a short list of vino by the glass, three aperitivo (Spritz, Americano or Negroni) and a small but attractive choice of cicchetti. The young owners offer warm service, a happy contrast to the sterner service at neighbouring Cantina Do Mori.
Osteria Bancogiro | Campo San Giacometto, San Polo
Despite its historic location, this happening wine bar has a more contempo feel. The vino list features less well-known varietals and a biodynamic section, as well as a handful of dolci (dessert) wines and four craft beers on tap, whilst the cicchetti menu includes oysters. There’s comfortable nooks to perch on a stool, as well as seating outside on the back terrace overlooking the Grand Canal, but the most fun seems to be happening in the standing area under the arches on Campo San Giacometto They also have a restaurant next door. Osteria Bancogiro
Osteria Al Ponte | Campiello Widmann già Biri, 6378, Cannaregio
In a quieter part of Cannaregio, this compact bar also has an adjoining room with tables and chairs, so you can linger a while if you’re so inclined. The rusty red walls and colourful light shades that look like they have been made from serving platters give it warmth and character. There’s the usual cicchetti offering as well as polpette and an attractive cheese selection, and Grappe and Amari to accompany the vino list. They play retro tunes and seem to attract a younger, hipper crowd than many other bars.
Un Mondo Divino | Salizada S. Canzian, 5984/a, Cannaregio
A compact bar with a low, timber-beamed ceiling, that draws you into its warm embrace with cheery service, thoroughly decent vino and a hearty selection of cicchetti – with both cold and warm options. There’s just ten stools, plus some standing room, and it does get boisterous at times. This celebrated Bacaro is an ideal central pit stop on a walking tour or bar crawl around Venice. Un Mondo Divino
Cà D’Oro alla Vedova | Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, 3912, Cannaregio
Duck down a tight alley and through the obscure door into this dainty Bacaro which serves up local vino (just seven or so by the glass in total), antipasti and absolutely divine fried polpette. The diminutive standing room only bar also serves as a holding place for diners lucky to score a seat in one of the two charming dining rooms where a larger menu can be enjoyed.
Cantina Vecia Carbonera | Rio Terà de la Maddalena, 2329, Cannaregio
Sitting inconspicuously on a busy pedestrian thoroughfare, behind the compact front bar here you’ll find two larger rooms with broad timber tables for communal drinking and socialising. The cicchetti choices here are more limited than some bars, though they do have arancini on offer as well. There are just four or five varieties of red and white vino, the old school nature of this place provides a more subdued vibe.
Bacaro Risorto | Campo S. Provolo, 4700, San Marco
Not far from St Mark’s Square, you’ll find this delightfully local corner bar, it’s pocket sized but totally bustling as happy drinkers pack in for a small but tasty selection of cicchetti, all the essential vino varieties and a choice of five craft beers on tap.
Magna Bevi Tasi | Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, 4520, San Marco
Also just a short stroll from St Mark’s Square, this lively bar avoids feeling like a tourist trap due to its young cheeky staff and delicious cicchetti menu. Apart from the usual vino and birra selection, there’s a long cocktail list, drinks flow easily here and things get a little loose as the night wears on. If you can’t score a seat in the snug room, there’s also outdoor seating on the piazza. This feels like an old-school bar that’s adapted to modern trends. Magna Bevi Tasi
RIO DELLA MISERICORDIA…
The following six bars are conveniently located within a few hundred metres of each other along the rio della Misericordia canal in the Cannaregio district, where you’ll find a low-key but delightful mix of both local and visitors enjoying engaging Italian hospitality any night of the week…
Al Timon | Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2754, Cannaregio
Doubling as both a bar and restaurant, the beautiful rustic room has enormous exposed timber beams and well-worn tables, with ample seating so you don’t feel rushed to drink and leave. The cicchetti offering is quite extensive and intricate, with little surprises like warm polpette on bread (there is also a full steak menu if you are here to dine). The wine selection is less mainstream and highlights natural and biodynamic varieties, the staff are passionate and professional. Al Timon is also family friendly. Al Timon
Bacaro Ae Briscoe | Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2684, Cannaregio
A young and fun crowd frequents this small canal side Bacaro, the minuscular bar gets cosy but most of the action is happening in the alfresco area beside the canal. There’s upbeat music and expressive chatter, an interesting vino selection that includes some orange wines, plus really lovely cicchetti that look as good as they taste. Bacaro Ae Briscoe
Vino Vero | Fondamenta de la Misericordia, 2497, Cannaregio
Probably my favourite Venetian wine bar, this petite gem has a modish interior with clean lines and a wall of timber cubes reaching the ceiling, well stocked with wines from small producers around Europe. They take their wine a little more seriously here than in most bars, even providing a taste before you commit to a glass. The team are well versed in their wine knowledge and the by the glass list on the blackboard changes regularly throughout the night. It’s a little more expensive than some of its neighbours, but worth the extra few euro to enjoy some truly lovely and interesting vino. Vino Vero
La Sete | Calle Larga, 2555, Cannaregio
On a side street just off the rio della Misericordia, this is a more contemporary wine bar – with old bones (such as exposed brick walls and rough timber ceiling beams) but modern style in the furniture and lighting, it’s a warm and inviting place to sit and sip on a vino or two. The wines tend to lean more towards natural varieties, and there’s a large range of bottles displayed in cabinets around the room. Run by a young team, they provide efficient service and a nicely relaxed atmosphere. La Sete
Birreria Zanon | Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2735, Cannaregio
This convivial bar is uncomplicated and welcoming to all – there’s a handful of timber tables with bench seats inside and ample seating outside by the canal. They offer eight beers on tap, all your favourite vino varietals by the glass (at a flat price of 4.50 euro each) and first-class cocktails too. Simple, fun, good times – what more could you ask for?
Vinile | Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2798, Cannaregio
A super cool cocktail and vinyl bar, this pocket-sized spot is decorated with album covers and shelves of liquor lining the walls, there’s just a handful of stools to perch yourself on and a dainty soundtrack of retro through to modern tunes. Cocktails are the specialty here, but beer and some good drops of vino are also available, and they are generous dolling out the bar snacks too.
Where to Stay…
Venice is far from short on accommodation options, with hotels to suit every taste and reason for visiting, spread across the island. Some potential places to consider include Hotel Liassidi Palace, a grand older property on a canal just a short walk from St Mark’s Square, or if you want peace and quiet and a stay in a real Venetian neighbourhood, opt for the contemporary Hotel Indigo Venice – Sant’Elena. If being close to lively wine bars is more your thing, opt for Hotel ai Mori d’Oriente in Cannaregio, or for the convenience of being close to the train station, the elegant Hotel Principe Venezia is an excellent choice. If pure luxury and decadence is on your wish list, there’s no better choice than the splendid Aman Venice in what feels likes its own provide enclave, right on the Grand Canal.
Must Do…
Bassano del Grappa
If you have a spare half or full day, a trip to nearby Bassano del Grappa is highly recommended. Just an hour by train from Venice’s St. Lucia station will deliver you into the heart of this beautiful historic town with impressive architecture, quaint piazza’s, lovely local regional food and sociable bars – and it’s surprisingly and pleasantly devoid of tourists. The landmark Ponte Vecchio across the Brenta River is both a picturesque photo stop as well as where the locals gather eagerly to enjoy a Mezzo e Mezzo (the local specialty aperitif liqueur which is mixed with water drawn from the river) from the Distilleria Nardini.
Featured Photo: ‘View From a Bridge – Rio dei Greci, Venice
Travis. 