Posted by The Canal Saint-Martin area in the 10th arrondissement is aptly dominated by its 4.5-kilometre namesake canal which was built by Napoleon in the early 1800’s to provide Paris with fresh water. Still a little gritty and bohemian, but becoming increasingly fashionable, this spirited area offers an authentic Parisian neighbourhood vibe.
Close enough to central Paris and adjoining the fabulous Le Marais, yet a world away in many aspects, this is where you can comfortably rub shoulders with friendly locals whilst enjoying a slew of relaxed bars, imaginative restaurants and cultured shops. Like most of Paris, it’s a late rising area (so don’t expect to find good coffee before 8am) and equally as late to bed, and if you’re visiting in summer you might be inclined to grab a bottle of vins and join the locals hanging out canal side.
The area is rather compact so is easily explored, though we’ve included some suggestions in this guide from surrounding arrondissements which are still within comfortable walking distance of the canal.
This Guide to Canal Saint-Martin was updated in September 2023.
Just Coffee..
Ten Belles | 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles
A very ‘Melbourne-ish’ inspired café with their own top rate coffee blends and simple but fulfilling fare like fresh pastries, toasted sourdough and petit sandwiches. It’s a cute space to hang out in, with little nooks and an almost hidden loft level. Ten Belles
Radio Days | 15 Rue Alibert
A perfect quick coffee stop, this compact cafe has a warm rustic interior and super friendly staff. Apart from the excellent coffee, there’s yummy cookies and gluten free pastries available. Radio Days
Dreamin Man | 140 Rue Amelot
This hole in the wall coffee joint has that “we’re not trying to be hipster, we just are” vibe to it. They take their mission seriously and put time and attention into every cup they make, including pour overs. There’s 8 seats crammed inside, but they are hotly contested so if you plan to linger longer, take a seat on the pavement. Dreamin Man
Bonjour Jacob | 28 Rue Yves Toudic
Very much at home in this hipster area, Jacob is a coffee shop and bookstore in one. The interior space is large, with concrete floors and white walls lined with books and magazines, offering ample space to sit and sip your coffee, read a book or tap away on your laptop. The coffee is excellent and there’s tasty cookies if you need a snack. Bonjour Jacob
Caoua Coffee Stop | 98 Quai de Jemmapes
A dainty canal-side café that sticks to the basics but does them very well, serving excellent coffee and a small breakfast and sandwich offering.
Breakfast & Brunch…
5 Pailles | 79 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis has a tremendous selection of food vendors, so 5 Pailles is conveniently placed for a rest stop between shopping for gourmet supplies. It appears to be a hole-in-the-wall, but there is a petit room at the rear for those dining in, as well as plentiful seating on the pavement. The menu reads like it would be right at home in any of Sydney or Melbourne’s best cafes, with beautifully presented dishes and a few Middle Eastern influences to spice things up – they even elevate the humble smashed avocado to a work of art. The coffee is silky smooth, another reason that the crowds flock here. 5 Pailles
Holybelly | 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix
A very bright and funky fit-out with concrete, exposed bricks and timber taking centre stage, Hollybelly is rather popular, so don’t be surprised if there’s a line to get in. The menu of modern café fare, with egg dishes and pancakes the core offerings, is supplemented by tasty daily specials. Superb coffee and slick service from the international team matches the quality of the food. Holybelly
Paperboy | 137 Rue Amelot
This coolest-kid-on-the-block café opens at 10am for a leisurely brunch. The industrial-like space is all bright, white and furnished with timber tables and benches for semi-communal style dining. The breakfast section of the menu offers a handful of options like a bacon & egg roll and some different spins on your usual breakfast fare, like French toast topped with a fried egg, crispy bacon and avocado. Creative sandwiches take the lead when it gets to lunchtime. They serve decent coffee, though it’s not the best you can find in the neighbourhood. Paperboy
Boulangerie de Quartier “Mamiche” | 32 Rue du Château d’Eau
At least one breakfast in Paris needs to be from a local boulangerie, and whilst it seems there’s one on every corner, choose wisely as who wants to waist calories on a sub-standard croissant in a town like this. This smart looking corner bakery often has a line out the door (and in Paris, a line indicates good things), inside you’ll find a delectable spread of golden pastries, bread and more bread, and a selection of filled baguettes. If you’re just seeking something simple, you can’t go wrong with their version of a ham and cheese toastie, it comes in a delicate brioche bun. Boulangerie de Quartier “Mamiche”
Lunch & Dinner…
Le Verre Vole | 67 Rue de Lancry
This tiny wine cave with a relaxed, eclectic vibe has been delighting the neighbourhood since 2000 and is still as popular as ever. The open kitchen serves deliciously honest, rustic French and international fare, the short but perfectly formed menu changes daily. The walls are lined with endless bottles of wine, I suggest you just let the staff recommend a nice wine, as they won’t disappoint. Small and busy, get there early to secure a table, and if you can’t, you can always buy a takeaway bottle of vins to enjoy canal-side. This is one of my very favourite Paris dining experiences. Le Verre Vole
La Marine | 55Bis Quai de Valmy
Sitting prominently on a corner across the street from the canal, La Marine offers a more elevated experience than your typical bistro. There’s lots of outdoor seating (which is in high demand), but the inside dining room should not be overlooked, it’s understated in its elegance and despite the size feels a touch romantic with candlelight and intricate design features. They deliver a finely tuned classic French menu, with all the necessary favourites included, plus a value for money plat du jour (special of the day) and a bigger than needed desert menu. This is an ideal ‘go to’ for consistently good French fare. La Marine
Le Comptoir General | 84 Quai de Jemmapes
A long labyrinth like hallway with a quirky museum-like display leads you to a rather surprising dining room that’s dark and moody, with a lush indoor garden being the predominant decoration, and the scene further set by the mismatched furniture and rattan chairs. The seafood focused menu is concise yet interesting enough to please most, there are just four each of starters, mains and desserts. Each dish offers some unlikely flavour combinations that work well, and the presentation is intricate and pretty. The wine list is also concise, with each wine listed as more mineral or fruity, and more dry or sweet. There’s a very lively bar attached the dining room, see below in the Drinks section for a separate review. Le Comptoir General
Early June | 19 Rue Jean Poulmarch
Founded by a bright young couple, Early June begins the evening as a wine bar and morphs into full restaurant service from 7.30pm. The stripped back décor is suprisingly warm, with flickering candles dotted around the room. The share food menu offers creative and modern fare that is perfect to drink good wine with, whilst an eclectic indie soundtrack signals that Early June is very unlike your typical old-school Parisian wine cave. Early June
L’Atmosphere | 49 Rue Lucien Sampaix
A relaxed and bohemian restaurant and bar that’s well loved and well lived in, with tightly packed tables and comfortable homely décor, it fills up quickly and stays busy through the night. The extensive menu offers all the French comfort fare you could desire, including a show-stopping entrecote, as well as salads, pasta and burgers. The food complements the drinks very well indeed, as well as the warm buzz of good conversation and of course… the atmosphere! L’Atmosphere
Biondi | 118 Rue Amelot
It seems difficult to tire of French food, but if it does happen, drop into this lovely Argentinian restaurant for fare that includes empanadas, salads, pork, fish and of course mouth-watering beef in a number of different cuts. There is restraint in the preparation and presentation of the dishes, they honour the theory that great produce does not need to be tampered with too much. The dining room with its sandstone walls is intimate, tightly packed and the only soundtrack is the low chatter of engaged diners. Biondi
Sur Mer | 53 Rue de Lancry
This diminutive restaurant specialises in oysters, contemporary sustainably sourced fish and seafood dishes, and of course good wine. It’s small, cramped and busy, so arrive early. Non seafood fans might not find much on the menu to please them here, but pescatarians will surely be delighted. Sur Mer
Drinks…
Le Comptoir General | 84 Quai de Jemmapes
This spacious bar adjoining the restaurant is lively and quirky, with palm trees scattered around the room and a shipwreck themed bar that manages to not be too kitsch. There’s a boisterous atmosphere, with lots of drinking, laughter and even some dancing at times. Rum based cocktails are quite the thing, but the menu offers other classics and new inventions alike. Once you have negotiated the labyrinth like entry to get in, you might find it a little harder to leave! Le Comptoir General
Carburant | 60 Rue de Lancry
A very laidback neighbourhood bar with a worn-in, well-loved look and feel, offering the simple premise that good conversation is valued above loud music. Beer is the focus here, with over ten brews on tap and a larger selection of craft beers by the can. Wine drinkers are not as well catered for, there’s a basic offering of wines by the glass from the cask – but hey, it’s France, all wine here is pretty good right! Carburant
Chez Prune | 36 Rue Beaurepaire
A wonderfully low-key and free-spirited bar with an eclectic décor and a nonchalant attitude, if the walls could talk here we’re sure they’d have some interesting tales to tell. There is nothing overly complicated about the drinks list, whilst the succulent oysters are ideal to accompany a chilled glass of Chablis. You can’t help but imagine that sitting at the bar most nights at Chez Prune might be an essential part of Parisian life if you were a local. Chez Prune
Le Cinquante | 50 Rue de Lancry
Cheeky and just a little raucous, this compact bar attracts a young-ish to not so young, but very fun crowd, who are drawn to simple drinks like beer on tap, a groovy soundtrack and a couple of cosy back rooms to retreat to when the night gets later. There’s no pretense here – it’s just all about good drinks and good times.
Au Fil Du Vin | 145 Quai de Valmy
Another popular spot across the street from the canal, this is a typically rustic style bar with rough brick walls, tables crammed up against each other, big windows opening to the street and young Parisians engaged in animated chatter. Bottles of vins line the walls, though beer and cocktails are equally as popular, and there’s a decent menu of drinking-friendly food too.
Lavomatic | 30 Rue René Boulanger
The entry door is hidden behind a faux washing machine in a tiny laundromat, leading into a narrow and dark staircase where you’ll discover one of Paris’ more delightful bars. The well thought out space has a homely feel with just the right amount of colour and frivolity (without it being too cheesy), and it quickly gets snug and noisy as thirsty drinkers pour in. They offer just six house cocktails plus twelve of the most popular classics, plus there’s a few vins to choose from and finger food too. Lavomatic
Bisou | 15 Bd du Temple
This tiny cocktail bar packs a colourful punch, the interior is as cosy as it gets, and they even cram the tables tightly onto the pavement sitting area. There’s no menu here, you simply tell them what you feel like and they’ll create a one-off concoction just for you. If you like it, they’ll tell you what’s in it, but if you don’t, they’ll make you something else. The drinks come in vintage glassware and are adorned with cute decorations like mini rubber ducks and flowers. Bisou is busy from early to late, with a young and suave crowd that obviously know what they like. Bisou
Where to Stay…
The neighbourhood style locale of Canal Saint-Martin means there are a lack of larger, cookie-cutter style hotels, but there are more than a few small, boutique styles gems to provide a peaceful nights rest.
Ibis Styles Paris Republique Le Marais | 9 Rue Léon Jouhaux
A small, older hotel that has had somewhat of a contemporary makeover – the rooms are bright and comfortable, though not entirely renovated so you may find some small imperfections. Like most Paris hotels, the rooms are very compact, but some have floor to ceiling windows that make them feel more spacious. The location is very convenient, within easy walking distance to both the Le Marais and Canal Saint-Martin, and it offers very good value for a hotel so close to the centre of Paris. Ibis Styles Paris Republique
Le Citizen Hotel | 96 Quai de Jemmapes
The twelve rooms at this intimate boutique hotel feature minamalist Swedish design with bright blue tiled bathrooms. Some rooms are rather compact, but others offer a little more space than many Parisian hotels, and all have pleasant views over the canal. Downstairs is a snug bar and café. Le Citizen Hotel
Le Grand Quartier | 15 Rue de Nancy
An ultra contemporary urban haven comprising hotel, cafe, lifestyle store and rooftop terrace just steps from the heart of the Canal Saint-Martin district. Built around a chic garden courtyard, the rooms feature clean lines and mid-century styling, with lots of natural light. It’s reasonably priced for the level of style delivered. Le Grand Quartier
Les Jardins du Marais | 74 Rue Amelot
The location of this hotel is a little walk from the heart of Canal Saint Martin (around 15 minutes), but its location is ideal if you also plan to spend time in Le Marais or the 11th arrondissiment, as it sits between all three of these areas. Behind the compact reception area is a leafy garden that’s got plenty of relaxed seating areas (good for an afternoon aperitif), this is surrounded by a series of separate buildings that house the guest rooms. The rooms are pleasantly decorated and offer essentials like comfortable beds and powerful showers, most are generous with space and also offer fresh air and abundant natural light. Les Jardins du Marais
Featured Photo: ‘Winter Sun’ – Canal Saint-Martin
Travis. 